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" Salt " is a miracle medicine or poison for aquariums?

"Salt" is known as a Chloride or NaCl solution, contains many potential effects in fish farming. It is truly effective in destroying, releasing biological materials and especially minimizing Stress of fish due to imbalance (water balance) during transportation, and acute stage of methemoglobinemia (Brown blood disease due to NO2 nitrite poisoning).

After years of testing with hundreds of fish, we have witnessed the true power of salt. Sodium chloride (NaCl) is one of the best “medicines” on the market that is effective against bacteria, fungi and external parasites. We love it because it's cheap, available at all stores, never expires, and can be easily used in low to high concentrations.
However, another downside is that salt cannot be used with most live plants and snails and it is easy to accidentally overdose on salt, which can kill everything (not just bacteria) in the aquarium. your soft drink. However, with accurate measurements and careful use, both new and experienced fish keepers can benefit from this highly effective remedy.

  1. What type of salt should I use for aquariums?
    Salt specialized for freshwater aquariums, also known as "tonic salt", is different from table salt and the salts you often use in the kitchen. Note that, do not add salt to any of your aquariums or aquariums. Aquarium salt is essentially salt made from evaporated seawater, it is specifically designed for use in freshwater aquariums and does not contain additives such as iodine or calcium silicate anti-caking agents. or also known by the familiar term GRAIN SALT.
    Absolutely do not use iodized salt for your aquarium.
  2. Some instructions for using salt to treat other diseases.    
                
    Diseases Dosage grams/ liter Time
    Used to treat diseases caused by Flavobacterium (fin rot, mouth fungus), and diseases caused by Saprolegnia 20-30 Take a quick bath for 10 - 30 minutes, depending on the fish's tolerance
    Restores blood salt concentration, improves fish condition;
    In tanks where fish are treated (fasted) before transport:
    In the tank, fish are processed and sized;
    Nursing fingerlings after transportation;
    Live fish in pet store
    3-6 Unlimited
    Prevent Saprolegnia fungus and external infections during and after operations 3-6 Unlimited
    Controls trematodes and some parasitic diseases on the skin. gill. 50 Soak quickly (30 seconds to 3 minutes). Used in cases of serious infection in difficult to treat areas.
    Controls trematodes and some parasitic diseases on the skin. gilll. 20-30 Bathing is quick (10 - 30 minutes), and needs to be repeated 2 - 3 times for effective control on some parasite species.
    Controls trematodes and some parasitic diseases on the skin. gilll. 10-15 Bathe for 6 - 12 hours, then rinse by running water slowly, repeat bathing 2 - 3 times
    Prevent damage to broodstock (osmotic pressure imbalance) during captivity or natural spawning. 5 - 6, with additional Calcium Dihydrate 80g/m3 Not determined
    Fish are raised in water containing salt and Calcium Dihydrate
    After spawning, fish need to be kept at least overnight in this water before moving them to another pond the next day.
     Shipping 5-8 During transportation
    Used in circulatory and biofloc systems to prevent bacterial gill diseases, fin rot, and fungal infections. Reduces the risk of nitrite poisoning 3 During production period
     Controls fungal diseases 20-30  Take a quick shower for 10 - 15 minutes

  3. How long should salt treatment last?
    - Leave the salt in the aquarium until the fish look healthy and then remove the salt by changing the water. At the end of treatment, do a 30% water change without adding salt and then wait a week to monitor. If the disease does not recur, do another 30% water change without adding salt and wait another week
    - If the disease recurs, return the dose to the original salt concentration and add a little more salt to increase the concentration of the solution. The initial salt concentration was probably not strong enough to completely destroy the lesions, or the fish did not spend enough time in the salt solution to dehydrate all the pathogens.
    - Must use appropriate salt concentration, usage time and adaptation must depend on each type of fish.

 

How to tell if a Betta fish is old or young?

 

Koi Red Halfmoon Baby Betta

Young Betta Old Betta
1. Size Smaller and more slender. They are often less than 2 inches (5 cm) long, and their fins may appear shorter and less elaborate.  Usually be between 2 to 3 inches (5-7.5 cm) long. As Betta fish mature, they also develop longer, more flowing fins, especially in males. Older Bettas might have slightly bulkier bodies as they fill out.
2. Coloration   The colors might not be as vibrant or developed. They can be more translucent or dull in appearance. Their color often becomes more intense. Mature males are particularly known for their bright and striking colors, such as red, blue, or iridescent hues.
3. Fin shape and length Generally have shorter, less defined fins, and they may not yet have the extravagant tail shapes (like crown tails, veil tails, or half moons) that adult Bettas are known for. Adult Betta fish, particularly males, will have long, flowing fins, and the tail shape will be more pronounced. The fins might also show some wear and tear as the fish gets older, especially if it's been in the tank for a long time.
4.Behavior Tend to be more active and playful. They may dart around the tank quickly and explore their environment with high energy. My become less active and spend more time resting. They can also become less territorial and more passive with age, although this can vary based on the individual personality of the fish.
5. Body Condition Wll be sleek and smooth, with no visible signs of aging As Bettas age, you may notice signs like slight body deformities or a thinner, more sunken body, especially if they are nearing the end of their lifespan. Older Bettas may also develop cloudy eyes or a slower metabolism.

 

6. Gills

A young Betta’s gills are typically bright red or pink and fully functional. Older Bettas may have gills that are slightly darker or less vibrant, and may show signs of wear or infection over time.

How to take care Molly fish

Molly fish are hardy and beginner-friendly freshwater fish, but they thrive best when their specific needs are met. Here’s a guide to properly care for molly fish:



1. Tank Setup

  • Tank Size: At least 20 gallons for a small group, as mollies are active swimmers. Larger tanks are better for more fish.
  • Substrate: Sand or fine gravel works well. You can also add live plants like Java fern or Anubias.
  • Decorations: Provide hiding places with plants, rocks, or driftwood to mimic their natural habitat.
  • Lighting: Moderate lighting to support plant growth and the fish's natural day-night cycle.

2. Water Conditions

  • Temperature: 72-78°F (22-26°C).
  • pH: 7.5-8.5, as mollies prefer slightly alkaline water.
  • Hardness: Moderate to hard water (10-25 dGH).
  • Filtration: Use a good-quality filter to maintain clean water, but avoid strong currents as mollies prefer gentle water flow.
  • Salt: Some molly varieties benefit from the addition of aquarium salt (1 teaspoon per gallon), but this is optional and depends on the specific type of molly.

3. Diet

Mollies are omnivores with a preference for plant-based food. Provide a varied diet for optimal health:

  • Staple Food: High-quality flake or pellet food.
  • Vegetation: Blanched spinach, zucchini, or algae wafers.
  • Live/Frozen Food: Brine shrimp, bloodworms, or daphnia for protein.
  • Feed 2-3 times a day, offering only what they can consume in a few minutes.

4. Social Behavior

  • Community Fish: Mollies are peaceful and do well with other non-aggressive fish like guppies, platies, or tetras.
  • Schooling: Keep mollies in groups of at least 4-6, as they are social and feel more secure in a group.
  • Breeding: Mollies are livebearers, meaning they give birth to live fry. If breeding, provide plenty of plants or a breeding box to protect the fry.

5. Maintenance

  • Water Changes: Perform weekly water changes of 20-30% to maintain water quality.
  • Monitor Parameters: Test water regularly for ammonia (0 ppm), nitrites (0 ppm), and nitrates (<20 ppm).
  • Clean Tank: Remove uneaten food and debris to prevent ammonia spikes.

6. Health Monitoring

  • Signs of Health: Active swimming, bright colors, and healthy appetite.
  • Common Diseases:
    • Ich (white spots): Treat with aquarium salt and temperature adjustment.
    • Fin Rot: Improve water quality and use antibiotics if needed.
    • Dropsy: Indicated by a bloated appearance and pinecone-like scales; requires immediate attention.

Bonus Tips

  • Avoid Overcrowding: Overcrowding leads to stress and poor water quality.
  • Tank Mates: Choose compatible tank mates to avoid aggression.
  • Acclimation: When introducing mollies to a new tank, acclimate them slowly to prevent stress.

By following these guidelines, your molly fish will live a healthy, happy, and vibrant life!

How to take care a guppy fry

Taking care of guppy fry requires attention to their unique needs during the early stages of life. Here are the key steps to ensure their proper growth and survival:

 


1. Set Up a Fry Tank

  • Tank Size: Use a small, separate tank (5-10 gallons) to keep the fry safe from adult fish that might eat them.
  • Filtration: Use a sponge filter or a filter with a fine mesh cover to avoid sucking in the tiny fry.
  • Heater: Maintain a consistent temperature of 76-82°F (24-28°C).
  • Lighting: Provide 10-12 hours of light daily to support healthy growth.

2. Ensure Clean Water

  • Perform small, frequent water changes (10-20% daily or every other day) to maintain water quality.
  • Test water parameters regularly: pH (6.8-7.8), ammonia (0 ppm), nitrites (0 ppm), and nitrates (<20 ppm).

3. Provide a Safe Environment

  • Add hiding places like live plants (e.g., Java moss, guppy grass) or artificial decorations.
  • Avoid overcrowding to reduce stress and competition for food.

4. Feed Properly

  • Feed small, frequent meals (3-5 times a day) with high-quality, appropriately-sized foods. Examples include:
    • Crushed flakes or powdered fish food.
    • Baby brine shrimp (live or frozen).
    • Microworms or infusoria for the first few days.
    • Specialized fry food.
  • Ensure food particles are small enough for their tiny mouths.

5. Monitor Growth

  • Separate faster-growing fry from smaller ones to prevent bullying and ensure all fry have equal access to food.
  • Observe their behavior and health, checking for signs of stress, illness, or stunted growth.

6. Gradual Introduction to Main Tank

  • After 4-6 weeks, when fry are large enough (about 1/2 inch), they can be safely introduced to the main tank.
  • Acclimate them slowly to avoid temperature and water parameter shock.

Bonus Tips

  • Avoid overfeeding to prevent water quality issues.
  • Keep adult guppies well-fed if fry are not separated, as this reduces the likelihood of predation.

With proper care, guppy fry can grow into healthy, vibrant adults!Red koi guppy