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Causes and solutions when the aquarium is cloudy
Aquarium water that is cloudy or has layers of moss clinging to the glass not only makes aquarium owners uncomfortable but also affects the growth of fish as well as their ability to resist disease. Therefore, we have researched and implemented a number of methods to make aquariums clear and clean, which have really brought great results. Now we would like to share a little with you!
First, you must know the reason why the fish tank is always cloudy.
Your fish tank is always cloudy like filtered water despite changing the water and cleaning the tank regularly, it could be due to one or more of these reasons:
- Your tank does not have a water filtration system or has a water filtration system but it is not working effectively. This is the main reason why the water is always cloudy even when the water has just been changed. To overcome this cause, you should renovate the filtration system to suit the tank volume and fish density.
- Your water filtration system has adequate pump capacity but the water is still cloudy, so you should check the type of fish tank water filter material you are using.
- Our aquarium does not yet have a stable microbiological system to help decompose impurities and toxic substances in the water.
- Because the fish tank is infected with some fungal diseases such as white fungus, cotton mushroom.. during the reproduction process, these fungi often separate small fungal particles that drift in the water, making the water always milky white and the tank's appearance normal. there is moss. Fix it by: Increasing the tank temperature to 29-30oC because this type of fungus often reproduces and grows in cold environments, especially in winter, so if the temperature increases, they will die and not reproduce. Or you can buy fungicide.
Due to feeding too much food, the fish do not eat it all, the food rots into the water, polluting the water source and always having a fishy smell.
Tank method: Change the water
Impurities generated during the development of fish tanks and aquariums can include: sediment from the tank floor, damaged and rotten aquatic plants, substances secreted from driftwood, rocks, and feces. fish,... these are the main causes that directly impact the water source in the aquarium. The water change plan will be a direct solution to help improve quality, reduce impurities in aquariums and aquariums, making the water clearer and cleaner.
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Advantages: effective immediately, no cost...
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Disadvantage: causes ecological imbalance in aquariums and aquariums, can harm plants and animals in aquariums.
Cleaning the tank
Cleaning aquariums and aquariums is one of the measures that you should do periodically. This will help keep our aquariums cleaner, free from impurities, harmful moss, etc. The aquarium always maintains a balanced and stable state.
Use Purigen
Purigen is a filter material product with impurity absorption properties. It is not a mixture of ion exchangers or adsorbents, but a unique porous synthetic polymer. This product removes water-soluble and insoluble impurities at a rate and capacity that exceeds all other competing products by over 500%.
Purigen filter media controls ammonia, nitrites and nitrates by removing nitrogen-containing organic waste that would otherwise release these toxic compounds. Purigen's impact on trace elements is minimal. It significantly increases redox. It polishes water for unprecedented clarity. Purigen filter media darkens gradually as it discharges, and is easily renewed by treatment with bleach. Purigen filter media is designed for both seawater and freshwater use.
Inhibits fish eating
Feeding the fish is also very important to keep the water in the aquarium clean and clear. Fish food is one of the main causes of cloudy aquarium water. If we feed the fish too much, the fish will not finish eating and will directly affect the water source. When the food dissolves, the water will become cloudy and dusty. Controlling the amount of fish food is one of the options that will positively impact the ecosystem of your aquarium.
Let's reveal to you some effective fish tank water filtration systems
Overflow filtration: the aquarium filtration system is one of the most important issues for all aquarium hobbyists. Especially for fish that eat fresh food such as Arowana fish and Arhat fish, the water filtration system needs to pay special attention to have a clean aquarium.
Coarse filter: often use filter cotton to retain large impurities in the water such as fish feces, leftover food and suspended residues in the water. This filter is also called mechanical filter. The higher the filter efficiency, the better. The cleaner the water in the tank is. You can use a rain filter to increase the filtering efficiency of this part. Be careful to wash the filter cotton regularly to avoid clogging the filter cotton and causing water to overflow.
Fine filter: fine filter, also known as biological filter, this part of the filter contains filter materials such as ceramic filter, ceramic filter, lava, crushed coral... These are materials with many rooxngnhor holes that are the residence for Microorganisms decompose impurities such as salt (NH4+), (NH3) and (NO3-) which are toxic substances excreted by fish that cannot be filtered by the coarse filter, causing toxicity to fish and causing damage to the fish. The fish tank has a foul smell or fishy. You should supplement microorganisms by regularly adding probiotics to the fish tank periodically every 1-2 months.
Chemical filtration: after going through the above two filtration parts, you need to have a compartment to detoxify the aquarium with filter media such as Activated Carbon, Arsenic filter stone... to detoxify the water.
In addition, it is necessary to supplement probiotics for aquariums
Microorganisms have the ability to produce enzymes that convert pollutants into their food, and these enzymes also create biochemical reactions that cleave bonds in organic matter to create CO2. There are many studies proving that strains of Alcaligenes odorans, Bacillus subtilis, Corynebacterium proponthum, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa have the ability to resolve excess organic substances in water. Among them, Bacillus Subtilis is the most interested and used because it decomposes organic matter rich in protein, liqid, starch, etc. much higher than other strains. One of the best probiotics today is EXTRA BIO.
Light control
Light is a part that affects the growth of moss and harmful substances in the aquarium. This makes our aquariums and aquarium fish unclean and limits the experience of watching aquarium fish. Controlling light will help inhibit the growth of harmful moss, helping the aquarium stay at its most beautiful and develop balance.
Buying genuine aquarium lights will help limit algae problems in aquariums and aquariums.
Raising fish to clean the tank
Raising tank-cleaning fish will make your work easier and more effective. We cannot satellite some narrow and narrow locations inside the aquarium or aquarium. Tank cleaning fish will help us do that job, making the aquarium cleaner and thus the water will be clearer. .
How to breed Betta fish?
Breeding bettas (also known as Siamese fighting fish) can be a fascinating and rewarding process, but it requires careful preparation and attention to their needs. Here’s a step-by-step guide to breeding bettas:
1. Select Healthy Bettas
If you find a reputable fish breeder to buy a pair of fish, you will be very successful. The resulting fry will resemble the female more than the male, so the female determines the quality of the fry.
- Male Betta: Choose a vibrant, active, and healthy male with good coloration and fin condition. The male should be around 6–12 months old.
- Female Betta: Select a female who is also healthy and has a visible gravid spot (a small dark spot near her abdomen indicating she is ready to spawn).
- Color and Type: Choose fish of similar types (e.g., veil-tail with veil-tail), as crossbreeding different types might not produce desirable results.
2. Prepare the Breeding Tank
- Size: A 10-gallon tank is ideal for breeding, as it gives the fish enough space.
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Water Conditions:
- Temperature: Keep the water temperature between 78°F and 80°F (25°C - 27°C).
- pH: A slightly acidic to neutral pH of 6.5 to 7.0 is best.
- Clean Water: Make sure the water is clean and free of chlorine. You can use a sponge filter or do water changes to maintain cleanliness.
- Separate the Fish: Place the male and female in separate containers within the same tank initially, allowing them to see each other but not physically interact. This will build up their interest and encourage courtship.
3. Condition the Bettas for Breeding
- Diet: Feed both the male and female a high-protein diet, such as live or frozen foods like brine shrimp, daphnia, and bloodworms, for about 1–2 weeks before breeding. This helps condition them for spawning.
- Observation: Look for signs of readiness, such as the female developing a gravid spot and the male flaring his fins.
4. Introduce the Male and Female
- After conditioning, gently introduce the female into the tank with the male, either by letting her swim in or using a divider if you’re unsure about their behavior.
- The male will typically begin building a bubble nest at the surface of the water if he’s ready to breed.
- The female will often respond by displaying vertical stripes on her body, which indicates she is ready to mate.
5. Courtship and Spawning
- Courtship: The male will flare his fins, swim around the female, and show off his bubble nest. He may also chase her, encouraging her to enter the nest.
- Spawning: Once the female is ready, she will swim under the bubble nest, and the male will embrace her in a "tunnel" of bubbles. This is where fertilization takes place. The male will wrap around the female and release sperm to fertilize the eggs as they are released.
- The female will drop eggs, which the male collects in his bubble nest.
6. Post-Spawning Care
- Remove the Female: After spawning, remove the female from the tank to avoid aggression from the male, who will now guard the nest.
- Male Care: The male will take care of the eggs by guarding them and blowing them back into the nest if they fall. The eggs will hatch in 24-48 hours.
7. Hatching and Fry Care
- Fry Development: After 2-3 days, the fry (baby bettas) will hatch. The fry will initially rely on the yolk sac for nutrition.
- Water Conditions: Keep the water clean, with gentle filtration (to avoid disturbing the fry). You can start feeding the fry infusoria (tiny microorganisms) or finely crushed betta fry food once they become free-swimming, around 3-5 days after hatching.
- Male's Role: The male will continue to protect the fry until they are capable of swimming freely and no longer need his assistance. Once the fry are independent, you can remove the male from the tank.
8. Raising the Fry
- Separation: As the fry grow, be sure to separate males and females, as males can become aggressive.
- Feeding: Feed the fry high-quality baby fish food or infusoria, followed by larger foods as they grow.
- Water Changes: Regular water changes are crucial to prevent harmful buildup of waste in the fry tank.
9. Releasing the Fry
- As the fry grow larger, they can be moved to a grow-out tank. By the time they reach around 3 months of age, they should be fully developed and can be sold or rehomed if desired.
Breeding bettas is a delicate process, and it’s important to ensure the health and well-being of both the parents and the fry. Patience and attention to detail will help you successfully breed bettas!
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DFAfAMtTXVz/ Here is an example link :)
" Salt " is a miracle medicine or poison for aquariums?
"Salt" is known as a Chloride or NaCl solution, contains many potential effects in fish farming. It is truly effective in destroying, releasing biological materials and especially minimizing Stress of fish due to imbalance (water balance) during transportation, and acute stage of methemoglobinemia (Brown blood disease due to NO2 nitrite poisoning).
After years of testing with hundreds of fish, we have witnessed the true power of salt. Sodium chloride (NaCl) is one of the best “medicines” on the market that is effective against bacteria, fungi and external parasites. We love it because it's cheap, available at all stores, never expires, and can be easily used in low to high concentrations.
However, another downside is that salt cannot be used with most live plants and snails and it is easy to accidentally overdose on salt, which can kill everything (not just bacteria) in the aquarium. your soft drink. However, with accurate measurements and careful use, both new and experienced fish keepers can benefit from this highly effective remedy.
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What type of salt should I use for aquariums?
Salt specialized for freshwater aquariums, also known as "tonic salt", is different from table salt and the salts you often use in the kitchen. Note that, do not add salt to any of your aquariums or aquariums. Aquarium salt is essentially salt made from evaporated seawater, it is specifically designed for use in freshwater aquariums and does not contain additives such as iodine or calcium silicate anti-caking agents. or also known by the familiar term GRAIN SALT.
Absolutely do not use iodized salt for your aquarium. -
Some instructions for using salt to treat other diseases.
Diseases Dosage grams/ liter Time Used to treat diseases caused by Flavobacterium (fin rot, mouth fungus), and diseases caused by Saprolegnia 20-30 Take a quick bath for 10 - 30 minutes, depending on the fish's tolerance Restores blood salt concentration, improves fish condition;
In tanks where fish are treated (fasted) before transport:
In the tank, fish are processed and sized;
Nursing fingerlings after transportation;
Live fish in pet store3-6 Unlimited Prevent Saprolegnia fungus and external infections during and after operations 3-6 Unlimited Controls trematodes and some parasitic diseases on the skin. gill. 50 Soak quickly (30 seconds to 3 minutes). Used in cases of serious infection in difficult to treat areas. Controls trematodes and some parasitic diseases on the skin. gilll. 20-30 Bathing is quick (10 - 30 minutes), and needs to be repeated 2 - 3 times for effective control on some parasite species. Controls trematodes and some parasitic diseases on the skin. gilll. 10-15 Bathe for 6 - 12 hours, then rinse by running water slowly, repeat bathing 2 - 3 times Prevent damage to broodstock (osmotic pressure imbalance) during captivity or natural spawning. 5 - 6, with additional Calcium Dihydrate 80g/m3 Not determined
Fish are raised in water containing salt and Calcium Dihydrate
After spawning, fish need to be kept at least overnight in this water before moving them to another pond the next day.Shipping 5-8 During transportation Used in circulatory and biofloc systems to prevent bacterial gill diseases, fin rot, and fungal infections. Reduces the risk of nitrite poisoning 3 During production period Controls fungal diseases 20-30 Take a quick shower for 10 - 15 minutes
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How long should salt treatment last?
- Leave the salt in the aquarium until the fish look healthy and then remove the salt by changing the water. At the end of treatment, do a 30% water change without adding salt and then wait a week to monitor. If the disease does not recur, do another 30% water change without adding salt and wait another week
- If the disease recurs, return the dose to the original salt concentration and add a little more salt to increase the concentration of the solution. The initial salt concentration was probably not strong enough to completely destroy the lesions, or the fish did not spend enough time in the salt solution to dehydrate all the pathogens.
- Must use appropriate salt concentration, usage time and adaptation must depend on each type of fish.
How to tell if a Betta fish is old or young?
Young Betta | Old Betta | |
1. Size | Smaller and more slender. They are often less than 2 inches (5 cm) long, and their fins may appear shorter and less elaborate. | Usually be between 2 to 3 inches (5-7.5 cm) long. As Betta fish mature, they also develop longer, more flowing fins, especially in males. Older Bettas might have slightly bulkier bodies as they fill out. |
2. Coloration | The colors might not be as vibrant or developed. They can be more translucent or dull in appearance. | Their color often becomes more intense. Mature males are particularly known for their bright and striking colors, such as red, blue, or iridescent hues. |
3. Fin shape and length | Generally have shorter, less defined fins, and they may not yet have the extravagant tail shapes (like crown tails, veil tails, or half moons) that adult Bettas are known for. | Adult Betta fish, particularly males, will have long, flowing fins, and the tail shape will be more pronounced. The fins might also show some wear and tear as the fish gets older, especially if it's been in the tank for a long time. |
4.Behavior | Tend to be more active and playful. They may dart around the tank quickly and explore their environment with high energy. | My become less active and spend more time resting. They can also become less territorial and more passive with age, although this can vary based on the individual personality of the fish. |
5. Body Condition | Wll be sleek and smooth, with no visible signs of aging | As Bettas age, you may notice signs like slight body deformities or a thinner, more sunken body, especially if they are nearing the end of their lifespan. Older Bettas may also develop cloudy eyes or a slower metabolism. |
6. Gills |
A young Betta’s gills are typically bright red or pink and fully functional. | Older Bettas may have gills that are slightly darker or less vibrant, and may show signs of wear or infection over time. |