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Here are aquatic plants that are well-suited for a shrimp tank (they provide hiding spots, promote biofilm growth, and help maintain water quality):

🌿 Moss & Carpeting Plants (Best for Shrimp)

• Java Moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri) – Very easy to grow, doesn’t require substrate, and is excellent for shrimp to graze on biofilm. 

• Marimo Moss Balls – Low maintenance, provide surface area for beneficial microorganisms.

• Subwassertang – Dense, leaf-like structure that shrimp love to hide and feed in.

🌱 Midground & Background Plants (Shelter & Stability)

• Anubias (Nana, Barteri, etc.) – Hardy plant with broad leaves that collect biofilm for shrimp to graze on.

• Java Fern – Thrives in low light, easy to care for, and provides great cover.

• Cryptocoryne (e.g., Crypt wendtii, Crypt parva) – Good for creating natural hiding areas.

• Vallisneria – Long, grass-like leaves create a jungle effect in the background.

• Dwarf Hairgrass (Eleocharis parvula) – Ideal for carpeting; shrimp enjoy foraging between blades.

☁️ Floating Plants (Improve Water Quality)

• Amazon Frogbit – Long roots provide shelter and feeding areas.

• Salvinia / Red Root Floater – Absorb excess nutrients and reduce nitrate levels.

• Duckweed – Fast-growing and excellent for nutrient control (needs regular trimming).

🌾 Additional Good Options

• Hornwort (Ceratophyllum) – Fast-growing, helps stabilize water parameters.

• Hygrophila species – Easy stem plants that add structure and color.

Why These Plants Are Good for Shrimp

• Provide hiding spots (important for baby shrimp).

• Encourage biofilm growth, a natural food source.

• Help maintain stable water parameters.

• Offer protection during molting.

“Pleco” is a common nickname for many species of suckermouth catfish in the Loricariidae family, especially those kept in aquariums. The term can refer to a wide range of species, from the massive common pleco to the much smaller and easier-to-keep bristlenose pleco.

Primarily nocturnal creatures, they typically spend most of their waking hours hanging from the sides of the tank, seemingly crawling along rocks at the bottom, or eating some other tank feature in their mouth. The lifespan of a pleco depends on the specific pleco species, with an average of 10 to 15 years. In total, there are about 150 different species of Pleco, most of which are native to South America. However, not all species are suitable for keeping as aquarium fish in tropical aquariums. The most commonly kept Pleco species include:

Bristlenose Pleco (small Pleco fish)

The Bristlenose Pleco averages 8-13cm in size, and is popular because it keeps algae growth in the tank to a minimum. It is shorter and stockier than the common pleco, and its flat body is lined with bony plates for protection. Its body can be grey, olive, brown or black with yellow or white spots. 

The round mouth and elongated lips of the Bristlenose pleco make it an excellent algae eater. They will consume more algae than shrimp or snails, and their small size makes them an ideal alternative to the common pleco. A tank of around 30 gallons (115 liters) will be suitable for the Bristlenose pleco. The most important element of a Bristlenose pleco tank is the filtration system. The fish will be constantly foraging for food and are therefore prolific predators. The water quality in your tank can quickly suffer if it has an ineffective filter.

Clown pleco (small Pleco fish

The Clown Pleco (Panaqolus maccus) is a great choice for aquarium hobbyists looking for a small, peaceful, and attractive pleco species. It’s ideal for smaller tanks and is easier to care for than larger plecos like the common pleco.

The Gold Nugget Pleco is a fairly black colour with numerous small yellow spots covering its entire body. These spots are evenly spaced and of similar size. The only area that is missing is at the end of its caudal fin. These areas are completely yellow.

This is a true pleco with a standard shape and structure. It has a sucker mouth and a head that tilts down towards the substrate. The body is widest around the eyes and the pectoral fins thin out towards the caudal peduncle.

The average size of the Gold Nugget Pleco is 18-25 cm in length. These are quite large fish! The ideal tank size for a Gold Nugget Pleco is at least 190 liters. Water temperature of 23-26oC, pH of 6.5-7.5, dH of 5-15 – are suitable water parameters for the Gold Nugget Pleco.

When planning or setting up a tank for a Gold Nugget Pleco, a regular sand substrate is the preferred substrate as this species spends most of its time at the bottom of the tank. Anything rough or uncomfortable will not only increase their stress levels but can also potentially lead to cuts and infections. It is very important to ensure these fish have plenty of hiding places. In the wild, this species is one of the best algae eaters. They spend a lot of time scouring the bottom of the water looking for algae as well as various organic matter and plants to eat.

Royal pleco

Known for their striking colors and bold patterns, the Royal Pleco is a great fish for really large aquariums. A tank of around 100 gallons (473 liters) is ideal for the Royal Pleco, with a temperature of 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit.

The main decoration in the tank should be driftwood. The Royal Pleco is a herbivore, feeding on submerged wood and various debris and organisms that live on wood. These fish have specially adapted teeth with strong jaws that have evolved to scrape wood.

- Sailfin pleco

The Sailfin pleco is a fairly large and long-lived species. It can grow to about 35cm in length and can live for more than 20 years in the wild, and 10-15 years in captivity.
The Sailfin pleco has a long, dark brown body with a large head. The body is covered with bony plates, also known as scales, except for the flat belly. It has small eyes located high on the head.

Sailfin Plecos are easy to care for as long as there is plenty of algae and other algae-based foods. Although omnivorous, the majority of their diet is algae. Sailfin Plecos will not harm plants, but make sure the tank is well stocked and supplemented with a diet of flake algae, green food and sinking pleco pellets to ensure they do not starve. They are super algae eaters.

Use a minimum of 400 litres for your Sailfin Pleco. Wooden decorations also provide them with hiding places during the day.

- Snowball pleco

Caring for the Snowball pleco is actually not that difficult. Like any other fish, the Snowball pleco has its own unique needs that you must address if you want it to thrive and reach its full potential and live a long, happy life.
The base color for the Snowball pleco is black or dark gray, with males being dark brown with a hint of red. White or light yellow polka dots are accented on both males and females. These dots cover the entire body. They create a nice contrast to the overall dark appearance of the fish.
The subtle red tone helps to identify the pleco as male, while the female pleco is fuller and rounder.

Snowball plecos need to live in a tank of about 152 liters of water. The tank filter must circulate the water effectively to prevent ammonia and nitrate levels from getting too high.

These fish can tolerate water that is neutral, but they do best if their environment is somewhat acidic. Water temperatures of 22-30oC, pH 5-7.6 and GH 6-10 are ideal conditions for Snowball plecos to thrive.

Since this is a bottom-dwelling fish, the substrate can be fine, soft sand that is safe for Snowball plecos. Place some decorations to create a cave.

Cory Catfish are peaceful, easy to care for fish that are enjoyed by aquarists of all skill levels.

Cory Catfish (also known as Corydoras, Cory Cats and Armored Catfish) are one of the most popular species in freshwater fish keeping.

Natural Habitat
Cory Catfish are known to thrive on live plants and other hiding places, so try to recreate that as best you can.
Some other things to note about the natural habitat of Cory Catfish are that they are more comfortable with sand than gravel (rock).
Shouldn't use gravel or other rough substrates as they tend to damage the body of Cory Catfish.

Personality
They live on the bottom and like to hide or rest during the day, but will forage with other fish at night. They are only seen leaving the bottom of the tank when they come to the surface for air.

The adapted gut lining means they can take in oxygen from the atmosphere. This behaviour is adapted to enable them to survive in waters with lower oxygen levels but they will still do this occasionally even in good conditions.

If this behaviour happens frequently, planting plants or air stones can provide them with extra oxygen.

They are an extremely social fish and should be kept in groups of 5 or more – watching Corydoras interact with each other is unlike any other fish.

However, some species are venomous and if highly stressed they can produce toxins that can kill everything in the tank. This means they should be self-transported and removed from the tank if they show signs of stress and quickly placed into quarantine.

Lifespan
In the wild, Cory Catfish live for 5-7 years. In captivity, Cory Catfish can live longer.
In the right conditions, Cory Catfish can live up to 12-15 years. There have even been cases of Corys living up to 20 years.

Size
Corydoras are quite small for Catfish standards. Generally, sizes range from 4-7 cm (1.5 – 2.5 inches) depending on the species.
That said, breeding females can reach up to 7.62 cm (3 inches)

Caring for Cory Catfish
These fish need a suitable habitat to thrive. It needs to be cleaned weekly, such as removing excess waste from the gravel and cleaning the tank glass. They often hide during cleaning but will emerge once the tank is cleaned. When cleaning, try not to overstress them as they will secrete toxins that can kill other species.
Change 20% of the water each week. Be sure to dechlorinate the new water and change the water slowly as disturbing the substrate.

Raising Cory catfish (Corydoras) properly is pretty rewarding—they're peaceful, social, and great for community tanks. Here’s a solid guide to keeping them happy and healthy:

🐟 Tank Setup

1. Tank Size:

Tank Size: Corydoras are small fish. Technically, a single Corydoras will only need a 10 gallon (37.8 liter) tank. Unfortunately, Corydoras are not happy alone, they need to be housed with 5 or more other Corydoras. For a tank of 5 Corydoras, a 20 gallon (75.7 liter) tank is the minimum.

• Minimum: 10-20 gallons for a small group (6+ Corys).

• Larger is better—Corys love space to roam.
  
  

2. Substrate:

• Soft sand is ideal (prevents barbel damage). Avoid sharp gravel.
  

  Unlike most freshwater fish, Corydoras are not suited to gravel – the jagged edges can damage their fins and stomachs.

  Sand – the best choice when it comes to keeping Corydoras. Soft sand will not damage the Corydoras’ antennae. Choose a “sunset” yellow sand to help keep the tank looking less dirty.

  While sand is definitely the best choice, it does cause problems with live plants. Sand has a low CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) – so the roots are needed to provide your plants with the proper nutrients.
  
  

3. Plants & Decor:

• Provide live or silk plants, driftwood, and hiding spots.

• They like shaded areas and cozy corners.
  
  Corydoras are not picky about plants – in fact, any will do. Some examples include: Anubias Nana, Java fern, Crypts, Hornwort, java moss are aquatic plants that do not require much light or pristine water conditions. 
  In addition to plants, Corydoras love to hide in driftwood and slate shelves. Feel free to be creative with your layout and placement
  
  

4. Filtration & Flow:

• Gentle filtration—Corys don’t like strong currents.

• Sponge filters or a filter with an adjustable flow is ideal.

🌡️ Water Parameters

• Temperature: 72–78°F (22–26°C)

• pH: 6.0–7.5

• Hardness: Soft to moderately hard (2–12 dGH)

• Keep water clean and stable—do weekly 25–30% water changes.

🧂 Tank Mates

• Peaceful community fish (e.g., tetras, rasboras, guppies, dwarf gouramis).

• Avoid aggressive or large predators.

• Always keep Corys in groups of 5 or more—they’re social!

🍽️ Feeding

• Diet: Omnivorous scavengers, but don’t just feed them leftovers!

• Offer a mix:

  • Sinking pellets (specially for bottom feeders)

  • Frozen/live food (bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia)

  • Blanched veggies (zucchini, cucumber occasionally)

Feed once or twice a day. Remove uneaten food after a few hours to keep water clean.

🐣 Breeding (if you’re up for it)

• Condition with high-protein foods (bloodworms, etc.).

• Simulate rainy season:

  • Do a water change with slightly cooler water.

  • Drop temp by 2–3°F temporarily.

• Look for T-shaped mating behavior.

• Eggs will be stuck on glass/plants—move them to a breeder box or separate tank to prevent predation.

✅ Bonus Tips

• Avoid copper-based meds—Corys are sensitive to copper.

• Watch for barbel erosion (often caused by poor substrate or water quality).

• Keep the tank well-oxygenated—they gulp air at the surface occasionally.

Here are a few of the most common wild betta species that are often available in the aquarium hobby:

1. Betta splendens (Wild-type):

   • The wild-type betta is the ancestor of the common betta used in fishkeeping. These wild bettas usually have a more muted coloration compared to the vibrant colors of their domesticated counterparts. They typically have shorter fins, and males have a less dramatic, more subdued appearance.

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2. Betta imbellis:

   • Known for their peaceful temperament, these bettas are often called "peaceful bettas" and are much less aggressive than their more famous relatives. They have beautiful iridescent colors, often with blue, green, and red hues.

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3. Betta mahachaiensis:

   • This species is quite rare in the hobby and is known for its striking blue and red coloration. Betta mahachaiensis is usually smaller and has a more slender body compared to other species.

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4. Betta coccina:

   • Often called the "scarlet betta," this species has vibrant red colors and smaller fins. They are known for their peaceful nature and are smaller compared to the more aggressive bettas.

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5. Betta uberis:

   • This species has a more subtle coloration with shades of brown and a little iridescence. They are less commonly found in the hobby but are prized by collectors who want a wild-type betta with a unique look.

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6. Betta channoides:

   • A species that is a little less common, but known for its more elongated body and beautiful coloration. They have a striking mix of blues, greens, and reds, and they can be somewhat shy compared to more aggressive betta species.

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     7. Betta Alien
   • Bettas with very unique colorations like metallic or iridescent hues that stand out, especially those with unusual color shifts such as neon greens, blues, or even combinations that seem almost unnatural or "alien" in appearance.
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Wild bettas are typically a little more challenging to keep than the standard domesticated bettas, especially when it comes to water quality and tank mates. Many wild species are adapted to specific environmental conditions, so it's important to research their care needs carefully.